1) Could you tell us more about the IFSCC Conference?
The International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists is a worldwide federation dedicated to international cooperation in cosmetic science. The conference is organized by the Swiss organization of cosmetic chemists SWISS SCC. It includes sessions on Skin Biology, Personal Care and Formulation as well as a pre-session highlighting Swiss innovation in Cosmetics. Together with the Inartis Network we will give the possibility to young scientists and entrepreneurs to present how to use transdisciplinary life science approaches to achieve innovation in cosmetics. We hope to thereby encourage these innovative people in their important work and give them an opportunity to discuss with the larger cosmetics companies.
2) How do you appreciate the effort made in Switzerland to contribute to the scientific progress of cosmetics in comparison to other countries? Which are the strengths of the Swiss R&D in this area?
Switzerland has the opportunity to benefit from the excellence of Swiss life science research. Progress in pharmaceutical and biotechnological research, for example in genomics can also be applied for the development of innovative cosmetic actives. It is a fortunate situation in Switzerland to have the proximity to world leading academic institutions. The universities of applied sciences enable pragmatic cooperation in applied research. This offer combination spanning both innovative basic and excellent applied research is the premise for innovation! Some concrete examples, like the adaptation of classic technologies to future needs, will be presented at the Young Forum in Zurich, the 21st September.
3) Where lay the challenges of the cosmetics development and testing today?
In 2015 it is exactly 20 years ago that the last IFSCC conference was held in Switzerland. Since then, the premises for innovation in cosmetics have changed and facts have gained importance with changing legislation for cosmetic products and their ingredients (REACH). This has led to many new developments in the area of analytics and product testing whether in vitro, ex vivo or in vivo. Also, in the final evaluation of a product, sensory analysis has become essential to ensure that the performance of a product meets the expectations of the more demanding market. This certainly brings opportunities for the cosmetics industry to put even more efficient products on the market but the move into this higher control of cosmetics products is certainly also a challenge. I guess that toxicological requirements and safety issues (penetration) on the one hand and how to formulate for a better efficacy on the other hand will stimulate each other.
4) How is the participation of the R&D efforts in industry in comparison to academia?
Academia invests due to their multiple mandates besides education a high percentage into basic or applied R&D. For the cosmetic industry it is different; for big sized companies an average of about 5-7 % in relation to sales is a realistic guess, while small and mid-sized companies will have a lower research activity. For them the federal institution supports with economic promotional tools, such as CTI project funding, to encourage them to carry out R&D Projects in collaboration with academic teams.
5) According to you, on which topics does Switzerland need to strengthen its R&D in cosmetic chemistry?
People living in Switzerland enjoy marvelous surroundings, lakes and mountain during their leisure time. The industry must continue to improve the performance of sun screen products also through a better sensory quality. By this, the problem with consumers only applying half or a third of the required amount for protection may be overcome. We are developing new methods to assess sensory quality that enable deeper insights into the interaction ingredients – product – consumer. A trend I see it that big companies start to outsource specific domains to small companies or research institutions. For successful open innovation, we need to keep the approach and the legal frame condition between both entities as simple and pragmatic as possible. The industry must still develop new markets – keeping in mind that innovative active ingredients must meet both national and international regulatory requirements.